Southern Spear Motorcycle Tour South Africa Rebooted

BY DUE SOUTH 2024

The ‘Southern Spear Tour’ was conceived several years ago. The name alludes to the fact that the tour passes through three distinct Kingdoms. Lesotho, Swaziland & Zululand (in South Africa). Whilst two are democratic in nature with a president (SA) and prime minister (Lesotho) being elected, one happens to be the last ‘ruling monarchy’ on the planet today. Swaziland, recently re-named Eswatini, has a cabinet of advisors but ultimately all major decisions are passed by the King.

Watch this amazing Video: Southern Spear

The pace and direction of this tour has always been a favourite of mine, it simply works well over the 12 days allocation. As with all the tour offerings, diversity is its trump card. South Africa, and its close neighbours, offer up a road network of excellent asphalt and a myriad of gravel options for the avid rider. Pillions are equally comfortable, not only does the rider get to enjoy their bike on these superb roads, but the passenger enjoys the self-same ever changing scenery which surrounds daily. Fragrances are also something a picture or video cannot convey. Forests (natural and plantation), mountainous tundra, sometimes well above the tree line in Lesotho. Sub-tropical coastal greenbelt with cane fields, banana plantations and a variety of citrus and other fruits (avo, papaya and much more) stretching outwards. The highvelds vaste plains punctuated with cornfields also have an allure if not the same grandeur. Even after offering tours across South Africa for over 15 years, I still feel like a child on Christmas morning opening that long-awaited gift. This, for me, is most especially so when riding out on the first day with a myriad of thoughts flooding my mind as to what is to come… and I’m never disappointed…

The tour just completed (Nov 2023), included the iconic Sani Pass on request of the client. The Drakensburg Mountains with peaks touching the sky at well over 3,000 msl makes for weather paterns that are often unpredictable and can change in a heartbeat. Planning for this ride included a ‘plan B’ should Sani Pass be either inaccessible or dangerous of the day. Fortunately, after a night and morning of rain falling in Clarens (Free State) where we were based on our first night, we did get a decnt weather window allowing us to head into Lesotho… Around 11h30 am we headed out. The border post easily negotiated and through Buthe Butha village with its busy streets was also a doddle. The ride was going stunningly well when all of a sudden, our progress ground to a halt… Nothing to do with the weather or roads, but an lengthy extended truck (horse and trailer) which was unable to negotiate an uphill switchback close to Oxbow had blocked the entire road. Its rear wheels had crumbled the edge of the road,, and unable to gain sufficient traction, was left stranded with all other vehicles, both sides, halted. After a short discussion we decided to proceed by walking the bikes under their own power past the obstructing truck uphill. Notwithstanding a few hairy moments when on both a proverbial and literal knife-edge we did manage to get past. The stunning roads through the Maluti Mountains offered breathtaking scenery, however, the delay had us arriving safely at our overnight atop Sani Pass, but in the twilight around 18h20 with light fading fast and more rain coming in. Masoba-Soba is a modest yet comfortable overnight lodge offering a few traditional round thatch huts and a small lounge/dining area for guests. Our lovely hosts were friendly and asked if we would be eating tonight… um… ja (yes) please. The evening meal was prepared post haste and landed in-front of us or we infront of the meal around 9pm. Without a doubt one of the best meals, we enjoyed over the 12 days. A plate of food which included a succulent soft beef stew, salad, veg and rice. The morning saw us wake up to sunshine and the hope that the pass had withstood the past few days rain (one week prior, the area was under snow and inaccessible). After another stunning breakfast, within a few hundred meters ride to the border post, we now stood above the clouds gazing down onto the first few, of many, steep and corse rocky gravel switchbacks with many corners revealing exposed rock and the depths of the pass being shrowded in cloud further down. The GS bikes did well to handle the pass with aplomb. 1st gear and on the brakes most of the pass, certainly the initial switchbacks needed care and consideration as to the line taken. The Blog picture is after Sani SA Border and heading into KwaZulu Natal towards Underberg. Really good weather and good riding to Midlands Meander and Howick Falls for a few pics before finding our way to Nottingham Road.

Great early morning and a first stop at the Mandela Capture site (museum and memorial), after which a short stint on the N3 highway past Pietermaritzburg. We take leave of the highway and head out towards Ixopo. Stunning roads pass cane fields and down a mountain pass on to Imzimkulu where we made our lunch stop. Self help and what a pleasure, we bought Boerewors and fresh bread and braai’d (BBQ) it ourselves over the fire coals provided by the rural butchery. The locals gave us a cursory glance or two as we were probably the only Abalungu (white people) they had seen around the fire in days and also as we had weird riding kit which is always a bit Alien. Although very little english is spoken in such a rural setting around the  Chisa Nyama fire, a smile is the ‘ticket’ to sharing the fire and tongs to turn our meat. What a treat, succulent boerewors sausage on bread, simple but sooo satisfying. Our day ended riding through Oribi Gorge (a canyon) and up to our overnight tented camp on the edge of the gorge and cane fields, with just enough time for a walk to the edge.

So now the tour heads north via Umkomaas (Aliwal Shoal), one of Jacque Cousteau’s top 10 dive sites, where we had a coffee gazing out to sea. Through sub tropical greenbekt and head into Durban City. We visit the rougher end of the harbour and indulge in ‘bunny chow’. A mutton ‘bunny’ and coke. A tasty curry in hollowed out bread. Two days and two memorable lunch stops, very different from each other but so flavoursome. Afternoon was a long and hot ride through to St Lucia. Two nights in luxury tents (rest day) followed with a boat ride to view Hippo and Crocodile population surrounding the Estuary.

After the ‘rest day’ it was a ride up to Swaziland. After entering the country, and as soon as we started to gain altitude into the Swazi Mountains, the weather closed in with thick mist which punctuated the rest of the day. Our stop at Hluti afforded opportunity to get out the wet mist and use a local eatery for a third memorable lunch stop. ‘Today’s Special’, chicken and chips with a red sponge cocounut cake shared for dessert. Our host, and shop owner, is a Bangladeshi and long-time resident in Swaziland. He has his ear attached to a portable radio catching the world cup cricket match on a Sunday afternoon; India was playing and I think he was supporting whomever was the other team. After a short respite from the thick mist and rain we do get to view some of the beautiful green mountains surrounding. However, as we head to our overnight lodging, we pass through a good downpour into Izulwini Valley and our overnight under ‘Execution Rock’.

The morning saw more rain in the Eswatini mountains which hide much of the rural homesteads with their subsistence farming with stepped beds on steep slopes. Maguga dam, however, was flowing and 100% full. After a the border post back into SA a good ride through fruit and cane fields taking us through to a lunch at ‘The Winkler’ hotel, with its ever so sophisticated colonial vibe. The stunning R40 from White River to Hazyview with its long flowing corners was appreciated as we rode swiftly to our overnight in Hazyview on the edge of Kruger National Park.

Early rising with a 5am departure to enjoy the cool weather with much wild game on view in their natural habitat (Lion, Elephant, Buffalo, Zebra, Buck, Hyena and more). A short afternoon ride to Graskop and a decision to not even try to view ‘God’s Window’ as the thick mist had rolled in and was staying overnight. A pleasant stay in a traditional Pilgrim’s Rest type guesthouse and meal in a local eatery offering Mozambique Portuguese cuisine. Meal was simple (peri-peri chicken quarter and salad), with, for me, the highlight being a fresh Portuguese breadbasket and a few dips.

In the morning, God’s Window still shrouded in cloud but the other natural sights on the ‘Panoramic Route’ accessible and clear with stunning views (Lisbon & Berlin Falls) along with the breathtaking Blyde Canyon (world third largest Canyon and the largest ‘living canyon’ with the other two being so called dead canyons due to their dry arid nature (Grand in the USA and Fish River on the Namibia border with SA). The afternoon included a decent 27 km gravel road through to ‘Pilgrim’s Rest’. The road is in particularly bad condition after the heavy recent rains, however, it was still loads of fun with a sense of achievement and also awe at the pounding the GS bikes are capable of taking. Lunch was enjoyed at ‘The Woodsman’ in Sabie, which is a very biker friendly spot. The day ended ascending into the clouds as we travelled up and up Long Tom pass. The last few km through thick fog and into our overnight being ‘Misty Mountain Lodge’ (hmmm, I wonder why they call it misty mountain… hmmm)

Our penultimate day was excellent with stunning big sky blue above us and that ever fresh fragrance after the past days rains. Fantastic riding on some of the absolute best asphalt for many many kilometres and up to Sudwala Caves deep in the mountainside for a visit. Then a brief touch on Mbombela (Nelspruit) before ascending to Kaapsehoop on the edge of the Barberton Crater. An eclectic lunch at the ‘Bohemian Café’ and super afternoon ride into Old Joes’s Kaia, one of my absolute favourite places. A full on Vegan dinner was enjoyed by ravenous carnivores. It was tasty and different which was an absolute treat.

After a morning walk in the stunning gardens, a ride back to Johannesburg with a stop at the Bergendahl memorial (Boer War) and Alzu for a bite to eat and the always unexpected treat of wild African game on view as a final reminder to all that we do have this precious resource to care for and protect. Back to the bike depot, a quick re-pack and Uber drive to the Airport. Southern Spear November 2023 done and dusted… sigghhh…